I didn't manage to get any shots of tail making, but it's very similar to pin making. Too focused on getting those joints done to take photos I guess.
Once the drawer joints were done I went to the pulls. This is not usually the order of operations but I had a pretty clear idea of what I wanted and I figured the fronts would be easier to handle alone... also JUST in case I biffed a pull I wouldn't have put as much work into something I would need to redo.
There are many disciplines of woodworking and it is safe to say that am not an "expert" in all areas. Carving is one of those areas which made doing these pulls a bit scary. The relative little experience I have with turning bowls seemed to help me out though.
If others are interested in putting some carved details in their work I might suggest to skip the "tool kit". You probably don't need 80% of the kit. Just get what you need as you need them and over time you may collect a "kit" that is tailored to your work. I have 3 straight-gouges so far and I don't foresee needing more any time soon :).
As per personal preference I also modify the handles a bit. They come with such long handles for the small tools and are covered in a dreadful feeling finish. I just cut part of the handle off, shape the end, scrape the finish off, break all the edges and put one thin coat of oil back on the handles and I get a much nicer feeling tool :)
I cut a portion of a scraper off and shaped it to help me along. Luckily Pear carves very nicely, but it's still tricky changing fiber direction in the "valley" of the pull.
It went a bit quicker than anticipate. Not too shabby for my limited experience and they work like a charm :)
While doing the drawer glue-ups I turned my attention to the back panel. The hardboard is a piece that I fit to the cabinet and marked lines representing possible frame dimensions, put the hardboard diagram in the cabinet and see if the lines would work. Like a mock-up. The full-scale diagram is also very helpful to the actual work. Once again, no measuring, no guessing, it's right there :).
8 comments:
i tried cutting some more half blinds the other day and knifed the pin base line with a knife against the shim liek you said...and i checked with my marking gauge afterwards and yea...it was off. i still didnt figure out how to transfer that "off-ness" into the tail board...**nudge nudge wink wink**
Also tried with the Krenov flair, worked out pretty well and looks pretty sweet, i find it's easier to fir the tails with a slight curve than with a perfectly straight line.
Hope to see you in toronto with this guy done!
humm while surfing around the net, i came across this http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Y6Bg8_IuuKg/Sojj1c0E1xI/AAAAAAAAF2A/hVby6pnfEIY/s640/IMG_0902.JPG
that looks like a neat way to transfer the pins...
Hmm well the "offness" I don't if you really want to mark... I mean it should be TOO off heh. What I do is set your marking gauge for against the knife scribe at the longest point and mark the side stock with that "measurement". Then kind of like the photo, set up the drawer front on the scribe line of the side and mark.
This way you are still getting a square shoulder which is very important. Also all you need to do while fitting the tails is trim off the small bit of tail end grain that is too long for your pins.
Worded it sounds a bit complicated but it makes sense in practice ha.
By the way, this one is a lady ;)
right i get it...i think it's also the inside face of the drawer, as i plane it, i plane it out of parallel with the outside face..
and sorry, i didnt know!
Nice pulls! and brilliant idea for the backpanel mock-up.
Thanks Barb! I don't know how brilliant the mock-up was though heh seems pretty intuitive to me ;)
The face of those drawers looks amazing!
Post a Comment