Back to the shop! Web-frames for the Kwila stand. The web-frames create the drawers pockets I'm wanting in the stand and give the stand way more strength than it needs heh.
Pictured above, using the band saw to cut the slip tenon mortise.
On the table saw cutting shoulders for the tenons
BAM! Fit slip tenons with allowances for easy clamping.
I guess I forgot to photograph the center piece for the drawer partition. Well, it is fit with shooting board and block plane then doweled into place. Pictured is applying the Kwila front edge.
I have enough good Kwila to have made the frames of all Kwila but I like the look of the Maple. A nice splash of colors for the curious. That and the drawer sides are going to be of the same Maple, it will all be nice and bright in there.
Fitting the frame to the stand and making it all nice and square. The nice thing about the web-frames is that when gluing up I know my stand will be square if the frame has a seamless joint. That is without ridiculous pressure.
Both frames fit with splines and dowels... I don't think they are going to go anywhere heh.
On to edge work and pre-finishing.
The first glued assembly of three, scary! It went smoothly enough, I'm glad I had an extra set of hands.
I can sense the light at the end of the tunnel... not there yet!
5 comments:
hah cute little dowel on the front rail!
yeah fitting webframes..i dont remember enjoying myself while doing it. next on my shop to do list is a HUGE shootingboard so i can shoot cabinet sides and stuff, balancing planes on the edges is fun but not if you mess up the "squareness factor.
it's looking great dude, im jealous
i love the curve you chose for the legs. Really stunning
Heh for shooting longer sides I just screw a block to my bench and use an appropriate board to prop the work piece. This was I can shoot along the bench instead of across it. It doesn't give me lateral support (would be down pressure edge planing with clamp) unless the work piece is narrow enough to clamp down. I just use hand pressure and keep checking for straightness.
This may not be the best/easiest approach but I haven't needed to figure anything else out yet ha. I am open to improvements though!
Thanks guys. I think maybe a 1/4" thicker stock could help the leg shape but I'm pretty happy. The tricky thing with this kind of leg vs the "gumby" leg is that you don't get nice square apron joints, unless you make "flats" for that. That could also take time to work out the transition from leg to apron.
May be a wash, eh.
Thanks for sharing the info regarding the use of web frames. Just completed a set of end tables that could have benefitted from this construction ... next time!
Best regards,
matt
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