Before I put the top down, while pre-finishing, I went ahead and did some beginning work on drawers.
Here I cut bits of Poplar to exactly fit the drawer openings. Which are slightly smaller than the rest of the drawer pocket(s).
Took one "story stick" at a time back to the table saw and set up a stop to cut the corresponding drawer front to size. I thought the thickness of my ruler was a good extra bit for fitting the drawer. Unless you want a sloppy fitting drawer you do not want it to fit the pocket off the bat.
Cross-cuts were made to the drawer fronts with carriages to get the correct angles I needed.
Here are four chop-blocks, all of which I need to make these drawers. Each one is a different angle corresponding to the different points on the curved drawer fronts that the joinery will go. It can get a little complicated, be sure to mark what goes where!
Here is what one of the chop-block set-ups looks like. I use a thickish block to prop up the drawer front to accommodate it's curve. I find this a lot easier and faster than making a curved cradle, which I find unnecessary.
Well, this post is a bit short. I thought I would separate this one from the next as it will probably get a little lengthy... at least a bunch of pics of making half-blind dovetail pins!
So, till then...
Wednesday, July 27, 2011
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6 comments:
i have a request! show that crazy shim in action so that maybe i wont veneer my drawer fronts to make fake half-blinds again!
holy smokes. most impressive!
Good thing I already took pics of the shim! It's really not crazy though heh.
Thanks mckenzie!
Hi Nick -
Great work ... I am really enjoying watching the progress on this desk. Couple of questions ...
a)How are the drawer dividers joined to the back rail?
b) How will the desk top be attached?
Regards!
Thanks Matt.
The drawer partitions can be doweled, or slpined, or in this case because I used veneer construction I just edge glued them. Really they don't even need that. The top will give the holding power like the bottom.
Just a couple dowels for this top. There is a good about of long grain edges for good glue joints. The bottom of the top is mostly unfinished and was taped off where these edges contact.
Because the top along with the sides are veneered I don't need to allow for the expansion that solid wood has. So no need for brackets and such.
Hope that answers your questions?
Thanks Nick ... yup, pretty much answers the questions. Suspected dowels, but didn't see any holes yet. Was more curious with respect to the dividers, as you had used splines to attached them to the web frame, but I suspect this may be because the dividers are veneered and the web rails are solid wood?? This led me to expected splines/dowels where the dividers and top meet. Look forward to seeing the completed piece and the upcoming night stands.
-mp
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