Holy crap, I didn't realize how backed up I was getting with my photos here! My last couple posts weren't about the work so have too many photos and had to edit a fast moving post here, that's ok some it was boring stuff anyway.
So There is the nice section of Maple I'm using for the top, bottom, partition, and back panel... veneered. This piece is about 20" wide! Much too wide for my small machinery. Something has to be done.
I had to rip the plank into 3 pieces along grain lines as best I could to fit them in my band saw.
Fast forward several HOURS of veneer cutting on the band saw and this is what the shop looked like... dusty.
Cut and sent through the planer, a bunch of nice 1/16" Maple veneer.
While the lumber-core I was making was being pressed with cross-banding I paid some attention to the doors again. Leveling out the accommodating material of the styles. I'm using my 1-3/4" coopering plane to make the back side of the style concave to match the curve of the door. It's a very nice detail to feel.
Poplar lumber-core with cross-banding. Now I need to know what size to cut it.
To help me out with that I got to making my side spacing template. I need to make it also exact because I don't really have room for adjusting the doors except the over lap where the doors meet can be trimmed about a 1/16" or so heh. Once again I made my template ever so slightly tapered thus building in "let-go" into the cabinet. This cabinet does not get drawers but it will aid in partition fitting yet again.
Fast forward applying bake-ins in the substrates and it's time to get the veneer back together. With the Maple lined back up as best I could I'm once again using tape for joining veneer.
I thought this shot might "demystify" the whole tape thing for those who may raise their brow about it ha. So. Take a piece of tape. Adhere it to one side of the joint (press it heh). Then pull both the joint and tape tight and adhere to the joining piece of veneer. The tape has some elasticity to it and will pull/spring back giving you your "clamping force". Now you need good fitting edge joints to do this. It does apply pressure but not like screw clamps or wedges.
Once you have all the tape on one side apply glue to the edge, flip the veneer over and follow the same procedure thus equaling the pressure on both sides which will keep the veneer pressed and level for curing.
Fast forward the veneer pressing and trimming. I'm making adjustments to the sides by shooting the top and bottom of said sides. Pictured are the two side frames lined up. I'm trying to get the front edges, where the doors will go, to exactly line up as to avoid complications with the doors.
FF the doweling process and the cabinet is finally dry-fit for the first time! It feels like it has been a long time coming to this point, and it has been. There is still plenty to do but it's nice to finally be able to stand back and look at something that looks a bit like a box ha.