Thursday, October 28, 2010
Monday, October 25, 2010
On the table are all the rough dimensioned parts for four horses. The little "pony" there was made at school as an exercise in tenons, it also happens to be a 1/2 scale of the low horses out at IP. I'm making the taller horses though.
The shoulders cut and waste removed with table and bands saw. I use a chisel to cut out the corners of the tenon then round it with files to fit the rounded mortises... morti?
LOTS of edges to treat! But I don't want to be grabbing at sharp things when working so treatment they received!
The horses are all assembled except for the top cross piece. There is a lap joint in the top of the leg about 3/4" deep and a lap in the cross piece about 1/4" deep. The top piece is not to be glued into place in case it is ever needed to be replaced. The 1/4" dowel is not compressed any further than what came from the factory and is a tight fit. One will need to apply a fair amount of force to get the cross piece off but not enough that anything is in danger of breaking.
I would also like a set in the 20-22" tall range, another time...
Sunday, October 17, 2010
The doors hung, edges treated, and finish applied the cabinet is basically done. It's strange just how plain it looks without those pulls. I feel the addition of the pulls will make a world of difference (hopefully for the better ha).
The Maple has finished a littler more yellow than anticipated. Only used 4 thin coats of extra blonde shellac and one coat wax. The material I had aside for the stand is Golden Narra, a golden yellow color of course. I got started mocking up a stand and then took Narra samples to the cabinet only to have mu stomach turn. It was too close and tooooo much yellow going on >:/ .
I think if the match was closer to the Maple yet of differing "qualities" say Oak of sorts, Hickory, and so on it could work. However seeing as how this is supposed to be more of a "show piece" I'm wanting a higher contrast.
The other side of this disappointment, other than the money needed for new material, time taken to find/get new wood, and just wanting to wrap this project up, is that the Narra I have is 2 7/8" thick! I was going to utilize the + 8/4 in my leg shapes. Now I have to re-design the stand!
As I have said many a time before, there is no where good to go here for a selection of lumber. Also it is disappointing that we really don't have any domestics that are in the honey brown color range (like Teak).
Called up my guy at Cormark (Jason who is awesome by the way) and briefly chatted with him about ideas and what he had in. I think Teak would be quite fitting but man, at $30 PER b/f? I'm thinking I need to get 20 b/f here to get what I need... $600 for a stand I wasn't prepared to pay for? If this was a commissioned piece it would be a different story.
There are other options like Iroko or some sort of Meranti, but I'm a bit uncomfortable with those as I have never worked with them and haven't seen anyone else who has. I really don't know how those woods age. I called Cormark because I knew they have some Kwila which is what I think I will go for unless he has some Brown Doussie or something, whish I doubt they do.
So while I wait for stand wood I will do some sketching of a new stand and thought I would at least start on the saw horses I've been wanting which is what the Ash pictured above is for.
There wasn't enough material to get the rest of the desk from though and it's only 4/4 so it will really only serve as a possible top >:(. One reason why I don't like these kind of shops, they use material indiscriminately. How can you do that with such a beautiful tree!?! The grain, the color! AH!
I figure at $35 for a beautiful top, I would regret not taking it.
So now here's a challenge... find other walnut with similar enough color to make the rest.
I heartily dislike going to these kinds of places. At least around here. At 27 I'm one of the young guys coming in and get treated like an uneducated child. They are the ones who look confused at me when I say I'm looking for straight grained rift sawn 8/4 material. Most don't actually know what Rift is. What am I building? It doesn't frickin matter, I know what I want and need. Oh, you want leg stalk? Well that plank there is quartered... I said RIFT. Do you know know that furniture is 3 dimensional? You get two side with straight grain quartered but what about the other two? Garbage. Oh, well this plank has some rift then that one over there... Those are different colors! We tend to look for "interesting" wood. Oh so what you do is cut part of the trunk to get the crotch and the another part of the trunk to get the butt of the tree. So you're trying to make "Nakashima" slabs out of any tree you get and wasting the prime real estate without even thinking about it. Boy getting that rift sounds like a lot of waste. Yeah? well what I'm building may be better for the tree, it will be beautiful and have a much longer and happier life than your failed "Nakashima" table (don't use his name in vain ha) or your mismatched gaudy gun rack.
Every time I leave I wish to never return.
Friday, October 8, 2010
I thought I thoroughly rolled glue on. The other side is fine. My veneer "press" set-ups haven't failed me before... Hmm.
Being a bit flustered I wasn't coming up with great ideas as to what to do. I called for help heh. I got a hold of one Mr. Jason Dingess a friend and classmate of mine who stayed on for a second year, so he was probably more fresh on such topics ;). Got a couple ideas talking with him and picked a plan.
Sometimes with these happens you just have to dive in and avoid the crushing loop of "oh my gosh, I can't believe I screwed up, what the hell am I going to do, what did I do wrong, can I fix this, how do I fix this, what am I doing..."
While I was in school bubbles happened to two students. Both took different approaches.
I chose the "diamond" plug. Hard Maple and other such smooth dense woods are not always the best wood to be doing this kind of thing with and joinery is less forgiving that in more porous woods. I figured I'd give this a shot, if it didn't work out I had a back-up plan.
cut out a rather elongated diamond to avoid harsh end grain joinery. Now, this just looked freaky to me. Just plain wrong. I liken it to cutting out a 1/16" deep diamond out of your flesh.
I had extra veneer so I took the "plug" from about the same spot in the veneer.
I used very thinned white glue in the bottle to help get the glue underneath the veneer filling the bubble. Put the plug in and clamped.
Getting close on the cabinet portion of things! Glue up the back panel, hang the doors, edge treatment on the doors, finish doors, flipper-floppers, levelers, pulls, and consoles. Well maybe there is a number of things to do but I think I might hold of on the pulls, levelers, flipper-floppers and consoles until I figure out what I want to use for the drawer pulls int he stand.
Saturday, October 2, 2010
The second glue-up (top to sides) I enlisted the help of my Father. He didn't even need to do much. I put glue in the holes and he spread it in the holes. I did the rest of the work. That extra speed made a world of difference though! Nice and easy it went.
There are a lot of "sticks" going on in this piece. I hope when all is said and done it wont be too much. Ah, I'm sure it wont, it's just a bit different seeing this kind of piece come together versus one using a lot of surfaces.