Tuesday, August 30, 2011
After machining down the components of the box to relative final thickness I was turning between planing the surfaces, and clamping up edge joints.
It may not be the most exciting process ever but it is enjoyable when the work goes well and the bits turn into something more.
Ha, knew this post would be short relative to the work I've put in, and it may happen again...
Till next time!
Thursday, August 18, 2011
30"H x 47.5"W x 22"D
Air Dried Walnut, White Oak
Here trying to photograph those pulls... tricky!
Wednesday, August 17, 2011
It's nice getting into new work though ideas and drawings of this piece have been around my head since March.
The box portion will be of Euro Beech and the little stand will be Kwila.
As I mentioned a while ago I wasn't the greatly pleased by the selections I got from A&M this time. One plank was much wider than the other and the center was lop-sided with a number of defects. The other more narrow plank was cleaner yet had some wonky grain going on.
I am doing the best I can to put together a clean product and think I will end up with a decent conclusion, it's just a bit more challenging. That of course can be interesting and fun in a way.
For the kind of grain graphic thing I'm going for one could be ripping smaller sections of the material and reassembling them to coax a nice smooth "one big plank". I've done this in some veneer work. However in this solid wood form I'm feeling the urge for simplicity and honesty, not that my other works aren't honest which is something I strive for... hmmm difficult to put into words.
Anywho, My intention is still that of "one big plank", which is much more than just throwing boards together, however with this selection there is just no way to get the smoothest transitions. Rather than fight it, I feel it more "graceful" to except it and "embrace" it for what it is... kind of getting to my Nakashima influences heh.
This is the Kwlia for the stands.
I happen to have one left-over narrow plank from my last order from Cormark Int. for the Maple Showcase.
The grain is straight and the color a beautiful rust brown with a bit of red which I feel will be lovely against the cream and pink tones of the Euro Beech.
I must say that I'm quite happy I was introduced to Cormark Int. (http://www.cormarkint.com/) by my benchmate and friend at IP, Jason D. The guys and gals there care about what they send out have been great for me to work with. My only complaint is that they are far away from me in NC. Cheers.
Monday, August 15, 2011
Make drawer bottoms.
Make drawer stops.
Chao! - NN
Friday, August 5, 2011
Anyway, sorry to fast forward the progress but I was on a role. The drawers have all been dovetailed, assembled, and fit!
I decided to rip the sections down the crack which was in the flat of the grain. I'd rather not cut through the flat because it is tougher to get a nice looking edge joint gluing them back together and particularly for something like Oak where the quarter-sawn edge will not want to work very well. What can one do but think, reason, adapt, be careful, and keep moving? heh
I haven't quite nailed down the shape of the pull. I don't think I'll be going with the "smiley" towards the right. I also think I could use a new carving gouge or two. I'd rather not by more tools but like I say, the right tool for the right job.
Don't know when I'll get to photograph it. Probably going to need a wider back drop for this one :/. Looking forward to completing the project and moving on though!
Monday, August 1, 2011
First I start by marking where the joints are going to go and there dimensions. I scribed a line where I want the reveal, or the portion covering the dovetails to the front. Also marked with a marking gauge how deep the joint should go which is referenced by how thick your drawer sides are.
Mark out the patter of dovetails and get sawing... carefully! Accurate sawing really makes the work go more smoothly and therefore more quickly. Saw at an angle meeting your scribe line both on the side and back of the drawer front.
The purpose of this is to leave a little to shave off at after the joint has been mainly chopped out giving you a nice clean cut/joint.
Now, the inside corner of these joints is where your saw couldn't reach so it will look a bit rough/stringy as you chop out the waste. It will be cleaned up later.
Look over your work. Make sure there isn't anything left to do while in the chop block.
Here are a couple tools I've learned how to make and use. At the top is a small pairing chisel. I mainly use this for dovetail work. It has short, wide-ish blade to be able to comfortable choke up on it and get a lot of control. The blade is also pretty thin in thickness and has a pretty long taper to be able to get between tight dovetails when fitting.
The middle I can only think to call a "detail chisel". I don't use it terribly often but when I need it, nothing else will quite do as well.
At the bottom is a violin knife. Quite handy to clean out corners.
Fyi... Oak is not the easiest wood for dovetails! I feel for the students at IP who picked Oak for their first box project! heh.
Well I am physically and mentally drained from dovetail week as always. Looking forward to wrapping this project up!!! I still don't know what I'm going to do for pulls yet hmmmmm....