Wednesday, November 30, 2011
This slightly elastic webbing was urged by the upholsterer I've been in contact with, who is basically the guy around town for Danish/Mid Century Modern stuff.
This was a sizeable undertaking for me in terms of things to learn.
That being said, it is "certainly" not perfect. I say certainly, my lady is more forgiving ha. She has a point though, it was meant as a learning tool.
Here's the run-down...
It's too wide by maybe 1-2".
I would like the seat deeper 0.5-1".
I want to kick the angle of the back leg a bit more.
With the variables of webbing and upholstery involved in the sitting height, it sits a smidge low.
A related note the lower sitting position effectively closes the back angle a tad. I'd like to adjust that. Though I need to wait to try the real foam which will be softer for the back, opening it up a bit.
The seat and back frames are pretty chunky for a single chair. I think they would be decent for a sofa. I was hoping to keep all the dimensions the same except width between chair and sofa. That may not work out, as I would like to build a sofa that I'm not afraid to use.
On the more positive side... The chair feels rock solid and I thought of a couple techniques along the way to use next time.
This was certainly a learning and humbling experience. After this sofa, I don't know that I'll be working on many more chairs heh... Though I still like the idea of a dinning chair / chair to go with that Walnut Desk. I do know that I would like a make a fairly simple bench with danish chord.
what to do now. I feel a little jumbled up... Perhaps finishing that plane will help.
Tuesday, November 22, 2011
At any rate, the legs and side stretchers have been pre-finished. Here is the second stage of the assembly, gluing the back leg. Per usual I've dealt with this tricky situation in a low-tech way. Worked out for me!
I'm certainly happy to see some bits coming together... for good heh.
I glued it up and will save the rest for another time.
I've been looking forward to working on the arms, the shapeliest pieces of the chair!
With joinery dry fit between the arm and legs I went on to the touchiest part, these reliefs at the back of the arms. This will allow the back frame to connect flush with the arm and the rest of the arm to over-hang a bit. This also allows me to do some shaping to give the arms a slight opening towards the front inviting the user to sit comfortably.
If you haven't guessed, this was done on the router table with a stop-block.
Dialing in the depth of the relief is critical for a good fit and smooth work. I got it to just be proud of the leg allowing me to just use sand paper to finesse it flush. Thus far, this is the only thing I've used sand paper on. Considering it is Oak, I'm quite happy with that.
The end grain has only been cut on the table saw and has yet to get its final shaping.
Dialed in the dimensions and ends, laid out, and bored for them main knock-down fasteners. I made the dowel holes a tad asymmetrical so that one can only assemble it one way.
The arms and knock-down rails are not done, but it's almost a chair?
At the moment I'm stuck on the frames, waiting for a router bit I'm not even sure I will use. It was supposed to be in this past Friday or today (Monday). Hopefully tomorrow or I'll be waiting till next Monday. Bah!
Tuesday, November 15, 2011
Here is the tenon side with checks cut off on the band saw, dialing in very close on the router table.
This has to be the biggest joint I've made since my bench!
You may note that the outsides of this joint are proud, beyond flush. This is to make clamping easier, quite convenient.
Turning back to the legs I dialed in the end grain angles. I must say that the O-1 steel blade in the block plane is proving itself as I had hoped! My A-2 would just crumble on Oak end grain. The O-1 keeps on cutting, relatively speaking, this is still Oak here ha.
Anywho, back to the boring machine to cut more twin tenon mortises. This time for the arm to leg joints.
Starting to look more like a chair though!
Pre-finishing comes next for these parts!
It was a gratifying bit of work. Probably the best live tenons I've made in a while, certainly the fastest! I needed that heh.
Yikes, I'm going to have to figure out this seat webbing soon!
Thursday, November 10, 2011
Here is a test run with the set-up and milling for the main knock-down hardware I will be using.
It took me a while to find a good quality hardware system that satisfied my construction desires.
What I found is an Australian manufacturer of mechanical fasteners by the name of Zipbolt. The model I have here is the Zipbolt UT mini 12.720 - KD6.
It consists of a threaded insert, for the leg side in my case, a double threaded rod, and a "nut" mechanism for the stretcher side.
Oh yes, the only supplier I found to sell these units retail was Stafast.com.
You will note the gap as I did not counter-sink the threaded insert on this test.
And yes, the joint feels strong when assembled!
WOCA Direct, after the post and comments about it on Mr. Godfrey's blog.
The WOCA product produces a nice minimal build up with a durable feel to it. It is light in color and pretty matte in sheen which is what I'm looking for.
There IS a problem though. About the only woods I would imagine using this on are Oak and Ash. Both are open grained woods As such the oil "pools" in the pores and more white pigment is deposited. Much like when staining these kinds of woods you get a pronounced color in the pores, in this case white. My immediate thought when seeing this is that it looks like there is dust in the pores, which I do not find very attractive.
WOCA is on the bottom. Just Clapham's wax above.
The just wax finish seems to be yellowing ever so slightly with time. The extra blonde shellac with wax starts out very slightly blonde but has seemed to stay put.
After doing some research and talking to a friend who works at a Danish Modern refurbishing shop I gather that a Soap finish is simply not durable. Although it is aesthetically what I want, practically it doesn't quite hold up.
Thus far I think my best bet is to go for a very thin extra blonde shellac with a thin coat or two of Clapham's wax.
Hmmm tough decision.
Also I have an idea to use recessed brass bars and screws to do the job. It could be pretty nice but pretty time consuming...
Friday, November 4, 2011
Shown above is tenon stock for the stretcher joinery between the chair legs. I cut pieces to rough dimension on the band saw. Joint and plane the stock with machines very close to fitting. I further dial in the thickness with a hand plane before cross cutting them to size. Once they are cross cut, any further fitting is done with block plane and sand paper.
Went on to gluing the tenons in the stretcher side.
This shows the mortise side of the joints which will be the width spaning of the seat and back.
I cleared out all the waste with the band saw. A bit time consuming and tedious with a normal band blade. A carbide blade would have made a little quicker work of it. I could have set the table saw up for these but figure I wouldn't be able to use that method with 6'+ long frame parts that the sofa will have. Part of the point of this prototype is to work out/think about methods of work for a sofa sized piece.
Oh I also don't have a proper ripping blade for such joinery with the table saw. Perhaps I should get one and clear the smaller frame parts by table saw and just do the big ones on the band saw hmmm.
Cut the shoulders on the table saw with a stop block for repeatability. Also cut the ends with the same dept for setting up the band saw when cutting the cheeks off and for consistency.
I cut the tenons a bit fat and will be dialing further in on the router table. I haven't gotten to that yet because I've been distracted too much with the event really starting this evening! I need a steady hand and mind for this kind of work so it will wait till the weekend is over. I will be in depose for most of it anyway and was able to get this post in now.