Nicholas Nelson

Gah! Other responsibilities kept me from laying a finger on this project for four whole days... was getting a bit edgy about it ha. But I now have pieces in a gallery in Northeast Minneapolis and am "making up" for time off the part-time gig for Toronto.
Anywho where was I?... Ok after getting the carcass dry fit with dowels one should address the back of the case. I used a block plane and my bench to check for flatness/planeness(can that be a word?) of this little guy.
Then to the router-table to make the rebates for the back frame. The vertical pieces on this cabinet are routed through but the top and bottom need stops, shown above. Nothing fancy, just scraps and clamps.
I'm planning on my back frame to be 3/8" thick so I make the rebates about 7/16" deep to allow a step from the back of the carcass to the frame.

There's a faint line that marks the rebate of the vertical piece. I always leave a bit of material for making the final cuts/fits by hand. Squared up the stops with the good old bench chisels.

Grooves were made for the partition by my little trim router. Maybe I should jig my router to able to be able to do this kind of thing but the "guide block" works too.
At this time I also made mortises for hinges, flipper-flopper, and key-hooks with the same little router plus hand work. Also a hole for the leveler on the drill press.

there are the key hooks of Kingwood. The purples in the Kingwood really go well with the violet and mauve in the air-dried Walnut. I mill the hooks together like this because they are easier and safer to work with as a larger piece than individual bits.

A finished key-hook with little live tenon.

Heh a tiny sand "block" with 1000 grit paper used to do a little softening of hardware mortises.
With a final ever-so-light planing of the surfaces it's on to pre-finishing!